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Engineered Hardwood Flooring ,Made in Vietnam

Wood Flooring Grade – Explained

Vietnam Solid Engineered Small-leaf Acacia Hardwood Floor

Wood Flooring Grade – Explained

Most of the real hardwood flooring is sold in various grades – Prime, Select, Natural, Rustic, etc. But what exactly this means? The grade of the timber in general, refers to the number of knots, sap wood and “imperfections” that the particular wooden flooring product (plank or parquet) would allow.

Unfortunately, there is no single definitive framework that can be used as an International Standard and the criteria can also vary between wood species. Different suppliers and manufacturers could refer to the below classification in different way or names.

Wood Flooring Grades Classification

It is commonly accepted among the majority of the wood flooring traders the grade of the timber to be shown as alphabet letters, as well as combination of them – A, AB, ABC, ABCD, CD. Often this refers to the actual wood flooring grades as follows:

Wood Flooring Grade - A Prime

A – Prime Grade

Typically, prime grade has few, or no knots, and these will be of minimal size. As they are small in size, they are usually referred as pin knots or eye knots. They are also known as healthy knots, as in general no filler is required to be used to fill them. There will be a relatively small amount of colour variation in the timber itself. And usually in the pure prime grade, no sapwood should be allowed.

Wood Flooring Grade - AB Select

AB – Select Grade

Select grade in widely available as an alternative to Prime grade, where pure prime boards cannot be obtained. Select grade of flooring will have some completely clear Prime grade planks, mixed with some with restricted size knots usually up to 10-15mm in size, some of which could be healthy knots, however filled small size knots is also allowed. Typically, with in Select grade of flooring about 10% sapwood is also allowed, as well as some colour variation of the actual timber.

Wood Flooring Grade - ABC Natural

ABC – Natural Grade

Natural Grade flooring, as the name suggest would have natural appearance of the wood, with some normal size knots about 25-50mm wide, often filled in wood filler. Number of knots could be limited per board. Sapwood and natural colour variation is usually allowed in this grade, as well as some filled cracks & knots on the edges.

Wood Flooring Grade - ABCD Rustic

ABCD – Natural / Rustic Grade

Rustic grade, together with the natural grade above, are the most widely spread wood flooring options, available in nowadays. Rustic grade flooring comes with virtually limitless size and number of knots per board. Due to the usage of heartwood & sapwood, colour variation is to be expected. Cracks and knots are often filled with filler to complement, rather than match the colour of the wood. As the letter abbreviation suggests, this grade is mixture of some occasional cleaner boards with more natural/rustic ones.

Wood Flooring Grade - CD Rustic Character

CD – Rustic / Character Grade

Character grade, is usually the lowest grade of timber, available in UK. This grade is a desirable choice where the character of the timber is to be emphasized. There is no limit of the sizes, shapes & number of knots. Any size cracks are allowed per board. Within this grade, there might be some (or all) unfilled, open knots and cracks. Maximum colour variation is allowed. Some products in this grade will also allow for some natural or purpose made imperfections – insects marks, rough saw marks, surface deformations, etc.

Wood Flooring Grades in Exotic Woods.

Apart of the most commonly used hardwood in UK – Oak, there are plenty of exotic wood species available in the market. Different exotic woods come with their specific characteristics in terms of knots, colour variation, sapwood, etc.

In general, most of the exotic timbers comes with quite vast colour variation. In addition to that some would have quite distinctive colour of their sapwood, which creates unique appearance of the flooring, when supplied in Rustic gradeWood Flooring Grade - Morado Character Grade

Morado Character GradeWood Flooring Grade - Morado Select

Morado Select GradeWood Flooring Grade - Walnut Panels Character

Walnut Panels Character GradeWood Flooring Grade - Walnut Panels Select

Walnut Panels Select Grade

Does lower Grade means Lower Quality?

The short answer is No. The lower grade does not necessary means that you have lower quality flooring. The quality of the timber itself should be exactly the same in all grades. Especially when we talk about engineered timber. Please note though that some wood flooring grades would allow open knots & cracks, however, in most cases this is purpose made in order to enhance the character of the flooring. 

What is the right grade of wood flooring for my property?

Wood Flooring Grade - Character Grade Flooring  Modern Interior

There is no right or wrong grade of flooring for any property. This is very subjective and will depends on the personal preferences & designer’s vision of the interior. A lot of customer would refer to Prime or Select grade of flooring if they would like to have more modern and/or minimalist appearance of the interior. Rustic/Character grade would refer to more traditional appearance. There are some exceptions in this, as some interior designers would make a combination of rustic flooring with modern furniture, which does appear rather nice.

The main thing when choosing wood flooring in particular grade is personal taste. Some clients would favour Cleaner grade, but for other it will look too perfect and fake. So it is important to make up your mind about this during the initial stage of planning for your wooden flooring.

Cost difference of different grades of flooring

As with everything else, there is a notable cost difference between the wooden flooring products that comes in different grades. In general, Prime or Select grade of flooring would be more expensive than Natural or Rustic, due to only small portion of the timber log can be used to produce cleaner grade of flooring. The cost would also depend on other factors, such as type of the wooden flooring (engineered flooring, solid wood, parquet blocks), size of the wooden flooring (thickness, width, length of the blocks or boards), as well as where it has been manufactured and of-coarse the actual wood specie.

Some wood species, as well as some types or sizes of wood flooring comes only in one particular grade. Also, usually the factory finished wood flooring products are made in a particular flooring grade only, with no option to be supplied in different grades (nor sizes).

Wood Flooring Grade – Tips

When choosing the right wooden flooring for your project, while considering the grade you may like, it is important to understand the overall appearance in the chosen colour. Usually Prime or Select Grade flooring appears better in combination of Light or natural finishes. If more medium/Dark look of the flooring is required, the colour itself would make the knots, sap wood and imperfections much less visible, therefore it could be more sensible to go with rustic grade flooring, instead of cleaner grade, as both will look more or less similar.

It is probably the same the other way around. As often the knots of the oak boards are filled in black filler, they will be quite obvious if the flooring is finished in very light / pale finish. This needs to be taken in to account during your initial planning of the desired flooring.

Wood Flooring Grade Medium Stained Flooring
Wood Flooring Grade - Select Grade Oak Natural Finish

Some flooring manufacturers thought do make their Rustic grade wooden flooring products with matching colour wood filler in the knots, which makes even their rustic grade floors to appear more uniform

Conclusion

While choosing between the different grades of the wood flooring, there is really no rite or wrong option. It is very personal choice and will mainly depends on your particular taste.

If you are keen to get wooden flooring in a particular grade, always ask the supplier about details of the flooring grade – what is and what is not allowed with in it. Reputable Flooring Company will gladly provide you with detailed information about the grading of the particular product. Also Experienced Flooring Installer will always give you valuable advise about the required wood flooring and its grade.

Please note that the grade (specification or names) may vary, due to different countries & factories having different grading rules and industry standards. Please refer to this article as guidelines only and check with your wooden flooring supplier the actual specification and allowance of the particular grade of the timber.

oRIGINAL sOURCE https://www.luxurywoodflooring.com/wood-flooring-grade-explained

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Advantages & Disadvantages of Engineered Wood Floors

Vietnamese Engineered Wood Flooring Dimensions Advice

Advantages & Disadvantages of Engineered Wood Floors

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Updated December 1, 2020

Looking into the advantages and disadvantages of engineered wood? Starting to get ridiculously overwhelmed trying to understand all the pros and cons of engineered flooring? Never fear! It’s time to stop and take a breath. We’re here to help. 

This guide will walk you through all the engineered wood advantages and engineered wood disadvantages you need to know about. Once you know the pros and cons, you’ll be able to decide whether engineered wood is the right type of wood flooring for you!

TABLE OF CONTENTS [Show]

First of All: What is Engineered Wood?

Let’s start at the beginning. Does engineered wood fall into the category of “hardwood floor alternatives”? No. Engineered hardwood is real wood. It’s just a little different than solid hardwood.

Solid vs. Engineered Wood: What’s the Difference?

While solid wood is made from one piece of wood (no surprise there) engineered wood is made of solid wood plus a super-durable plywood core.

Think of it this way: solid hardwood grew up in a mansion on Millionaire’s Row. Plywood works in a factory on the wrong side of the tracks. These star-crossed lovers, married together, created engineered wood. 

With its real hardwood veneer and layered plywood core, engineered wood combines the durability of composite wood with the luxury of solid hardwood. 

Engineered hardwood has a veneer layer over plywood

Some people call engineered wood “fake wood flooring”—and we get it. There are a lot of misconceptions!https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

But the best engineered wood flooring brands use high-quality materials, a thick veneer, and a sturdy core. Meaning engineered options behave almost exactly the same way as solid options. 

Plus—these days, almost all of the best hardwood floor brands sell engineered wood, giving you more choices when buying a hardwood floor than ever before.

And once engineered wood is installed, it’s impossible to distinguish it from solid hardwood. You can even use it to make creative wood floor patterns, just like you can with solid wood!

Already sold? Us too. That’s why it’s one of the most popular types of wood flooring! But hold your horses, because there are some important engineered wood disadvantages to keep in mind.

Engineered Wood Disadvantages

Look, we love engineered wood because it can go where solid hardwood can’t. Plus, it can make exotic woods more affordable. And, it can sometimes make do-it-yourself flooring projects easier.https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

But don’t run off to your local flooring retailer just yet—there are important questions you need to consider before you start picking out color samples. 

Along with the good stuff, there are a number of engineered wood disadvantages, too—and you could be very disappointed down the road if you don’t consider them now. Let’s jump in!

Some Engineered Wood Products Can’t Be Refinished (But That Doesn’t Always Matter)

Many people buy hardwood floors because they can be sanded down and refinished almost indefinitely. Unfortunately, some types of engineered wood can’t be refinished more than once. And some types can’t be refinished at all

It all depends on the thickness of your veneer layer. A thicker veneer layer can be refinished multiple times. But, if there’s not enough wood in the veneer layer to allow for sanding, you can’t refinish it (because you’ll sand right down to the core layer). https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

So why doesn’t this always matter? Well, if you buy prefinished hardwood flooring (aka wood that’s finished in a factory rather than in your home), it generally comes with a super-durable, UV-cured finish—often with the addition of aluminum oxide. These finishes are so strong, they don’t generally have to be refinished. Rather, they’re resurfaced, which is a much less intense process that doesn’t involve sanding down to the wood itself. 

Engineered Wood Can Be Scratched and Dented

Even though engineered wood is durable (engineered products often make our list of the best wood flooring for dogs), it will dent and scratch over time.

That’s just life—especially if you have rowdy kids, naughty pets, or heavy furniture!

Even if you purchase the best engineered wood flooring, engineered wood is still just that—wood! And that means its resistance to scratches, dings, and dents will be determined more by the hardwood species and finish you choose than by anything else.https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

Thin Veneer Layers Can Reduce Your Floor’s Lifespan

Because of what we just mentioned, you need to choose a thicker veneer if you want to refinish your engineered wood.

Most veneers range from 1mm to 3mm thick. For refinishing sake, we recommend a veneer layer of at least 3mm, as this can be sanded and refinished 2 or more times. If the veneer layer is thin—1 mm or less—it can’t be sanded or refinished at all. 

However: we would once again point out that this isn’t an issue with today’s prefinished hardwoods. These days, a veneer of 1.2mm is standard—and perfectly adequate.

Engineered Wood Is Not Waterproof

Both solid and engineered wood are made of natural materials, and will warp and bend if they get soaked. Even the best engineered wood flooring products can’t resist standing water.https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

Water damage is every homeowner’s nightmare—so if you don’t trust your roof (or if your plumbing is ancient), maybe see how tile vs. wood floors stack up before committing to engineered wood.

That said, engineered wood’s composite construction does make it less susceptible than hardwood to changes in humidity and temperature. Compared to solid wood flooring types, engineered hardwood is a safer bet in moisture-prone areas like kitchens, bathrooms, and basements. 

And It Isn’t Entirely Moisture-Proof, Either

Look, we’re not talking about outdoor flooring options here, but there are some areas that benefit from more water-resistant surfaces—bathrooms, kitchens, and basements, for example.

And while engineered wood is more moisture-resistant than solid wood (as we mentioned), it will swell and buckle if it sits in standing moisture for too long. 

Translation: if you need some super water-resistant wood flooring, you might want to think outside of the engineered hardwood box. Look into the pros and cons of tile vs. laminate, for instance. These days, many types of floor tiles come in wood-look finishes, and you can even find waterproof laminate options like Mohawk’s RevWood.https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

If you’re not sold on tile, lots of types of vinyl plank flooring blend realistic wood-look visuals with a completely waterproof construction. There are some disadvantages of vinyl plank flooring, but water-resistance is not one of them.

Low-Quality Engineered Wood Can Off-Gas VOCs

Low-quality engineered wood doesn’t just fail the endurance test—it can also be harmful to your family’s health. Talk about engineered wood disadvantages!

The EPA has found that low-quality engineered wood is sometimes made with glue that contains formaldehyde, a volatile organic compound (VOC) that goes through an off-gassing process once it’s installed in your home.  

Thankfully, low-VOC flooring is becoming more and more common. But when you’re buying engineered wood, it’s still something you should look out for—especially if eco-friendly flooring is a priority for you.

Our advice? Get your floors from a local flooring store in your area rather than from a big box store. They specialize in helping you find quality materials and don’t sell risky products. https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

And Low-Quality Products Can Wear Out Quickly

Remember: not all engineered wood is created equal. Be careful to avoid low-quality products from cheaper producers (*cough*lumberliquidators*cough*), as your initial savings will be lost when your floors wear out before their time.

Start with some quick online research. A little work today saves a lot of trouble later. After all, you don’t want to have to google “how to install hardwood floors” again after only a couple of years! 

Plus, Low-Quality Core Construction Is Also an Issue

Speaking of wearing out quickly: if your engineered wood floor is constructed with a low-quality core, it doesn’t matter how thick its wear layer is. It will wear out before its time!

To remedy this issue, you want to look for engineered products that have a thick, high-quality plywood core. Plywood is different from fiberboard or OSB (oriented strand board) and is often more durable.

Try to get products that have 7-9 layers (or “plies”). The best engineered wood cores will have 9+ plies, but these can get pricey.

Engineered and Solid Wood Can Be Similar in Price

While engineered wood can be cheaper than solid wood when it comes to more expensive or exotic wood species, this isn’t always the case.

In fact, when it comes to many types of wood, engineered and solid wood options are extremely similar in price. This is true most often with domestic species like oak and ash.

Think of it this way. One of the big disadvantages of hickory flooring is that it’s more expensive than other domestic hardwoods. So if you buy an engineered hickory floor, it will probably be cheaper than buying a solid hickory floor. And some super-exotic products like ebony flooring can only be purchased as engineered options (if at all).

But if you want oak flooring, the cost of an engineered wood floor will probably be very similar to the cost of a solid wood floor.

Is this a huge engineered wood disadvantage? Perhaps not, but it is worth mentioning.https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

Engineered Wood Can Fade in the Sun

This isn’t as much an engineered wood disadvantage as much as a general wood floor disadvantage. But it’s still important to know that engineered wood can fade from UV exposure.

There is an easy solution to this problem, though. Ask your local flooring store for products that have UV-resistant coatings, and make sure to keep your floors out of direct sunlight if possible.

And Engineered Wood Is Not Low-Maintenance

If you were hoping that engineered wood would offer a super low-maintenance solution to wood flooring, we’re sorry to be the bearer of bad news—but it isn’t.

In fact, engineered wood requires just as much maintenance as solid wood does, because the top layer is solid wood!

We’re not saying engineered wood requires as much maintenance as cork, for instance (one of the big disadvantages of cork flooring is that it has to be resealed periodically)—but it is definitely more labor-intensive than something like laminate.

After all, what is laminate flooring if not a durable, low-maintenance hardwood floor alternative?

Engineered Wood Advantages

We admit, we’re biased. Even though there are some engineered wood disadvantages, it’s still one of our favorite types of flooring. There are so many advantages to choosing this material—and not just because it’s an easy way to get the look and feel of the best hardwood floors without breaking the bank. Here are some engineered wood advantages:

Engineered Wood Can Save You Money (Especially With Exotic Woods)

If you’re obsessed with the look and luster exotic woods like mahogany or teak, you’re not alone. Exotic hardwoods are a gorgeous choice, but they can get pricey—and fast. 

So if you’re considering an exotic wood species like Brazilian Walnut (one of the most durable wood flooring options around), think about getting an engineered product.

Because they use less solid wood, engineered exotic woods often cost less than solid exotic woods. Basically, they can help keep your wood flooring cost within budget without compromising on beauty! 

Installation Is Often Quicker, Easier, and Cheaper

engineered wood disadvantages do not include installation—with click-together systems, it's seriously easy to install

Who wants to spend a week tiptoeing across an unfinished wood floor, ducking workers, and drying glue spots? Not us! Home renovations can drag on, turning a fun transformation into a frustrating mess. 

One of the biggest advantages of engineered wood flooring is how quickly and easily it can be installed if you purchase it as a click-together flooring system. 

Click-together flooring is exactly what it sounds like—flooring boards pre-made to snap together in a jiff. These systems can be installed over existing flooring as “floating floors” (no need to break out the claw hammer), and don’t need to be nailed or glued down. 

This easy installation can make the cost to install engineered hardwood floors a lot cheaper, but make sure to talk it out with your contractor for specifics. They’ll probably thank you for making it easy on them as well! 

Oh, and forget what you’ve heard about the disadvantages of floating floors. If installed correctly, click-together engineered wood can be just as durable as nail-down solid wood.

Engineered Wood Is More DIY-Friendly

As we mentioned, click-together flooring doesn’t need to be attached to a subfloor (and “what is subflooring”, you ask?).

This doesn’t just make it easier and cheaper to install for professionals—it also makes it some of the easiest flooring to install for DIY-ers, too!

So whether you’re thinking about redoing your wood floors, putting in new surfaces on the cheap, or just looking into the cost to replace carpet with hardwood, remember—there are some engineered wood disadvantages, but ease of installation is not one of them.

There Are Tons of Unusual-But-Amazing Engineered Products 

Want all the benefits of an engineered wood floor but with a little added oomph? We hear you. Luckily, tons of wood-adjacent products like bamboo and cork also come as engineered options. https://b8d940dcc5892b9cf8b3553f15c0a1d5.safeframe.googlesyndication.com/safeframe/1-0-38/html/container.html

Have you looked into the pros and cons of cork flooring? You should! What about bamboo flooring vs. laminate? Definitely check it out.

Whatever surfaces you want, from the best cork flooring to the best bamboo flooring, you can find them as easy-to-install engineered options.

Don’t believe us? Check out the pros and cons of engineered bamboo flooring. They’ll blow you away!  

Original Source https://www.flooringstores.com/blog/engineered-wood-disadvantages/

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Engineered Wood Flooring hardness rate scale Janka Wood Hardness Scale

Hardwood Rating System And Why It Is Important

Flooring Blog / By All American Flooring

Janka Wood Rating for Common Species
Courtesy of Build Direct

When building a new home or renovating the floor of an existing property, you want the best floor in the market. However, the wide range of choices available can decide to narrow down your choices overwhelming. There are many flooring options, and if you decide to install a hardwood floor, there are still many types of hardwood species available. Luckily you are not alone. In this article, we will discuss the Janka hardwood rating system  (wood hardness scale). The rating can help you to select the perfect flooring type for your residential or commercial property.  

Janka Wood Hardness Scale

The Janka Hardness Scale is an essential tool that determines the hardness of wood and its ability to withstand wear and tear. Developed in 1906 by Austrian wood research Gabriel Janka, later, in 1972, the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) standardized it. Noteworthy, wood floors are natural. Therefore, the Janka rating measures the qualities inherent to the particular tree species. It is used as a hardness standard for durability in different species of wood.

The rating is calculated based on the amount of force required to lodge a 0.444-inch steel ball up midway through wood planks. The higher the Janka rating, the harder is the species of wood. The system measures a wood’s capacity to withstand damage and to dent.

The Janka Rating Industry Standard

Red oak is the most popular flooring option in the flooring industry. It is used as a standard of comparison with other woods because it has a median Janka rating of 1290. Red oak is used as an industry standard because it is neither too soft nor too hard, but just right. It is also abundant in the USA. 

Why The Janka Rating System Is Essential

There are hundreds of wood species in the world. The Janka rating system has classified all or most of these woods from the hardest to the softest. Therefore, it is easier to know what functions suit a certain wood tree species. Out of the many tree species, only a few are suitable for use in the flooring industry.

For wood floors, any Janka rating higher than 950 is suitable for flooring. But again, you have to consider other factors when choosing a flooring wood species. You can compare red oka hardness with other tree species. Here is the Janka Hardness rating for some popular hardwood used in the flooring industry:

Janka Ratings Of Common Flooring Hardwood

  • Brazilian Cherry 2350
  • Hickory 1820
  • Hard Maple 1450
  • White Oak 1360
  • Red Oak 1290
  • Yellow Birch 1260
  • Black Walnut 1010
  • Black Cherry 950

Besides that, the hardness rating of hardwood also reveals certain features about the wood, namely, the workability, durability, and cost.

Workability Of A Hardwood

Builders use the Janka rating system to determine how easy or difficult it is to cut and nail a wood species. Floor installation for hardwoods with a high Janka rating like hickory is harder than softer wood like red oak. For example, Brazilian walnut has a Janka rating of 3684. It has high shock resistance and durability. However, to work with it best, woodworkers predrill it for screwing.

Durability And Sturdiness Of Hardwood

Contractors and homeowners can use the Janka hardwood rating system to know which wood suits their flooring or furnishing needs. The scale classifies wood depending on its density, revealing how much the wood will hold up against wear and tear like denting and scratches. The higher the Janka rating, the more resistant the wood is to wear, dents and scratches. For example, high traffic areas or homes with pets and children should opt for flooring options with higher Janka ratings.

Cost Of Hardwood

Most hardwoods with a high Janka rating take decades, if not hundreds of years, to grow and mature. As such, they are more expensive than softwoods. The charges for installing them are higher because they require more effort to nail and cut, which takes a longer period, pushing their installation costs up.

Wood Stability Test

Apart from the Janka rating system for measuring the hardness of hardwood, stability is another method of wood grading. Stability indicates the level of wood expansion when exposed to varying humidity. After harvesting, some woods have to be dried longer while others have to be acclimatized before installation, depending on their stability. While red oak is stable, hickory and maple are not stable because they take in moisture quickly.

Conclusion

When selecting a wood type, you can use various variables. You can use the natural color of the wood, the stability of the wood, its hardness, and costs to determine your preference. To know the hardness of wood for your flooring project or any other wood-related project, you should use the Janka Rating System. It shows the relative hardness or softness of woods.

oRIGINAL SOURCE https://www.allamericanflooring.net/wood-hardness-rating-system/

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All roads are yours when you look into the future

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Dogs are man’s best friends

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Reading in dark always gets me excited

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Running to the hills

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A guide to engineered wood flooring

WHAT IS ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORING?

A guide to engineered wood flooring

This entry was posted on October 13, 2015 by Chris Elliott.

What is engineered wood flooring?
Engineered wood flooring is one of the most common types of hardwood flooring available.  It has a solid wood top layer so looks just like a solid wooden floor once it has been installed.  It has become increasingly popular because of its versatility, durability and easiness to install.

Engineered wood flooring should not be mistaken for laminate flooring, which is in fact, a picture of wooden flooring laminated onto high density fibreboard.

Engineered hardwood flooring – what is a wear layer - cross section

How is engineered wood flooring made?
Engineered wood flooring is made up from multiple layers of wood which have been bonded together to provide a dimensionally stable plank of flooring.  The flooring has a top layer, or wear layer of solid wood (of a chosen species, e.g Walnut or Oak).  This wear layer must be at least 2mm thick otherwise the flooring is classified as veneer rather than engineered.  The base layers cannot be seen once the flooring has been installed, and is usually made from plywood or a middle layer Eucalyptus or Hevea and then a plywood base layer.

What size are engineered wood flooring planks?
Engineered wood flooring is available in a variety of different plank sizes, usually with fixed lengths but thickness ranging from 12.5mm to 22mm and widths of between 100mm and 400mm.

What fitting system does engineered wood flooring have?
Engineered wood flooring is available with either the traditional tongue and groove profile or a click fitting system.

Where can engineered wood flooring be used?
Engineered wood flooring is very versatile and durable so can be used in most rooms in your home.  It can withstand moderate changes in temperature and humidity so can be used in kitchens, conservatories and rooms with large amounts of glazing, in addition to hallways and living spaces.  The only rooms that it is not advisable to use engineered hardwood flooring in would be bathrooms, utility rooms or any other areas with large amounts of water and moisture.

Can I use engineered wood flooring with underfloor heating?
Yes, engineered wood flooring can be used with underfloor heating systems.

How should I install engineered wood flooring?
Because engineered wood flooring is made from multiple layers, making it dimensionally stable, it does not need fixing in place like solid wood flooring.  The most popular way to install the flooring is by loose laying (or floating) over an underlay.  The planks are then clicked or glued together but not fixed to the underlay.  Alternatively, engineered wood flooring can be glued down directly to the subfloor, or secret screwed or secret nailed down if the plank of flooring is at least 18mm thick.

What are the benefits of engineered wood flooring?

  • Looks just like solid wood flooring once installed
  • Cheaper than solid wood flooring
  • Quick and easy to install
  • Can be floated over an underlay
  • Can be used with underfloor heating systems
  • Can be used in kitchens and conservatories
  • Available with either a tongue and groove or click fitting system
  • Available in different widths

This entry was posted in Engineered wood flooring and tagged engineered wood flooringunderfloor heatingengineered hardwood flooringengineered hardwood floors on October 13, 2015 by Chris Elliott.

Original source https://www.ambiencehardwoodflooring.co.uk/wood-flooring-guide/a-guide-to-engineered-wood-flooring/

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SURFACE TEXTURE IN Vietnamese HARDWOOD FLOORS

3-layer or multi-ply Vietnamese engineered wood flooring? Which is better?

When looking at different hardwood flooring samples you may wonder what the different surface textures mean. Hardwood flooring texture can add a lot of style and dimension to your flooring. Smooth, hand scraped, wire brushed and distressed are some of the textures you can get on some wood products like prefinished flooring or engineered flooring.

The most popular hardwood flooring texture is smooth. Smooth texture floors are sanded flat and then finished. This texture can be done on site finished or factory finished products. The smooth surface is elegant and uniform and looks great on dark stained woods. The smoother hardwood flooring textures can show dents, scratches and other blemishes more readily but for some lifestyles this is not a concern.

Handscraped hardwood flooring is becoming very popular. The level of texture can be very subtle or range to a more extreme level of texture. Handscraped hardwood flooring adds a warm feeling and makes the room feel lived-in. The more texture the boards feature the more scratches and dents can be hidden. The texture of handscraped floor can help mask wear and tear while still being beautiful. Virginia Vintage, Armstrong Gatsby Hand Sculpted, Mannington Inverness Hand Sculpted

Distressed or antiqued wood if another texture method for hardwood flooring. Distress marks are added to the floor like dents, blackening of the edges, burn marks or other texture methods added. Distressed flooring can be ideal for homes with pets and high traffic usage. The distressed look will help camouflage wear on your floor.

Wire Brushed wood falls between smooth and hand scraped texture. The wire brushing process is when the floor finish is lightly scraped with a wire brush to create long or linear streaks. The wire brush texture will highlight the linear grain patterns and can create a more interesting look to oak flooring. Wire Brushed products add a nice amount of texture without feeling like they are rustic.

In some engineered or prefinished product lines these methods are combined to create a beautiful texture and style. The different texture methods add to the wood and can create a unique feel to your flooring.

Oringal source https://peakfloors.com/surface-texture-hardwood-floors/

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different surface textures for vietnam engineered hardwood flooring

different surface textures for vietnam engineered hardwood flooring

What are the different surface textures for hardwood flooring?

  • Smooth: Traditional Hardwoods are generally smooth. They don’t have any dimensional surface texture.
  • Wire-Brushed:This finish involves scraping the wood planks with a hard-bristled wire brush that pulls out the soft grain featured in the hardwood material. This process shows the natural beauty in your wood flooring.
  • Distressed:Distressed hardwoods are manufactured with a combination of wire-brush and Hand Scraping that gives your flooring a rustic appeal while providing dimensional texture.
  • Handscraped:Handscraped hardwoods take on an aged, worn look, recreating an old-world look of craftmanship that has much sought-after charm.

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